Kodai-gire

About Kodai-gire

Kodai-gire generally refers to dyed and weaved antiques dating from before the Meiji period (1868-1912). Silks (or hemp for summer use) were dyed, weaved, or embroidered to make noh theater costumes, short sleeved kimonos, bridal robes, kimono sashes, and priest robes, which would be dyed indigo and other colors. These garments would have been available only to the most affluent people.

The detailed coloring, stitching, and dying used to create Kodai-gire have been deemed impossible to replicate, even with modern-day technology. And even after surviving so many generations, the Kodai-gire still remains as vibrant and captivating as ever.

As the number of Kodai-gire pieces depletes over time, they have become antiques that are not just incredibly valuable, but extremely rare as well.

Teiko Hoshi and Kodai-gire

When she came across Kyoto-born Nami Matsumoto’s doll costumes, Teiko fell in love at first sight. From then on, she became fascinated by Kodai-gire, which is the trademark material used by the Shikoukai even today.

“Much like ancient paintings or sculptures, what makes Kodai-gire so great is rather difficult to describe with words. Perhaps it is the colors and patterns that have gained a special kind of depth after the passing of so many years which give it such a unique feel.
People are always so surprised at just how much work, right down to the last detail, is put into these dolls, especially in today's fast-paced world. I’m having fun entrusting the ever disappearing Kodai-gire to these dolls, and hope others will enjoy looking at them too.” —from Teiko Hoshi’s “O-ningyou [Doll]”

Shikoukai Dolls & Kodai-gire

Shikoukai only uses Kodai-gire coming from up until the end of the Edo period (1603-1863). And when a piece of Kodai-gire is going to be used for a doll to wear, careful attention is paid to make sure the period in which that Kodai-gire was made matches that of the doll.

After hundreds of years, to some Kodai-gire may seem worn. However, they are brought back to life once designed as a doll’s kimono or obi (kimono sash), showing us that we will still be able to enjoy them for a long time to come.

Since the Edo period, Japan has seen many good days, but also many bad ones too—Kodai-gire has been with us through it all. The very fabric itself exudes this rich history.

We might even go as far as to say that the faded vibrancy in the textures and colors convey to us the many “stories of Japan.”

While some artisans take their inspiration from Kodai-gire, others look for that piece of Kodai-gire that will perfectly match the style of the doll they are making. The harmony between Shikoukai’s dolls and Kodai-gire offers a rich variety of products created.

After being crafted using traditional Japanese techniques, adorning these dolls in Kodai-gire finally brings them to life as they hold proud in them the “soul of Japanese folk.”

Stories of Japan that transcend time; and the soul of the Japanese people.

The Shikoukai dolls adorned in Kodai-gire teach us not to forget what is precious in life and the soul of Japan.